Examples of suitable β,β-Diphenylacrylate compounds include Octocrylene, for example marketed under the trademark “Uvinul N539” by BASF; and Etocrylene, for example marketed under the trademark “Uvinul N35” by BASF.

Suitable anthranilic compounds can include menthyl anthranilates, for example marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan MA” by Symrise.

Examples of dibenzoylmethane compounds include Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, for example marketed under the trademark “Parsol 1789” by DSM; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.

Suitable cinnamic compounds include Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, for example marketed under the trademark “Parsol MCX” by DSM; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, for example marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan E 1000” by Symrise; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

Examples of camphor compounds include benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, for example marketed under the trademark “Mexoryl SD” by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, for example marketed under the trademark “Eusolex 6300” by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, for example marketed under the trademark “Mexoryl SL” by Noveal; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, for example marketed under the trademark “Mexoryl SO” by Noveal; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, for example marketed under the trademark “Mexoryl SX” by Noveal; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, for example marketed under the trademark “Mexoryl SW” by Noveal.

Suitable benzophenone compounds include benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the trademark “Uvinul 400” by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the trademark “Uvinul D50” by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, such as that marketed under the trademark “Uvinul M40” by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), such as that marketed under the trademark “Uvinul MS40” by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); such as that marketed under the trademark “Helisorb 11” by Norquay; benzophenone-8, such as that marketed under the trademark “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), such as that marketed under the trademark “Uvinul DS-49” by BASF; and benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (such as that marketed under the tradename UVINUL A+ by BASF).

Examples of triazine compounds include Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, such as that marketed under the trademark “Uvasorb HEB” by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as that marketed under the trademark “TINOSORB S” by BASF, and ethylhexyl triazone, such as that marketed under the trademark “UVTNUL T150” by BASF.

Suitable benzotriazole compounds include phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,240,975.

Suitable benzalmalonate compounds include Dineopentyl 4′-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, such as that marketed under the trademark “Parsol SLX” by Hoffmann-LaRoche.

Examples of benzimidazole compounds include, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, such as that marketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex 232” by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, such as that marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan AP” by Symrise.

Suitable imidazoline compounds include Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.

Examples of bis-benzoazolyl compounds include the compounds described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264.

Suitable para-aminobenzoic acid compounds include PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, such as that marketed under the trademark “Escalol 507” by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, such as that marketed under the trademark “Uvinul P25” by BASF.

Suitable methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds include 2,2′-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], such as that marketed under the trademark “Mixxim BB/200” by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2′-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], such as that marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark “Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the trademark “Mixxim BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184, and EP-893,119, and Drometrizole trisiloxane, such as that marketed under the trademark “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or- “Mexoryl XL” by L'Oréal.

Examples of benzoxazole compounds include 2,4-bis[5-I(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine, such as that marketed under the trademark of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.

Suitable examples of screening polymers and screening silicones include the silicones described in WO 93/04665.

Suitable dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene include the dimers described in DE-19855649.

Examples of 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds include 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2′-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present disclosure further comprise at least one additional organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of Avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), Octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), Homosalate, Octocrylene, and mixtures thereof. In such embodiments, the UV absorbing system can “consist of” or “consist essentially of” (1) bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and (2) at least one organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of Avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), Octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), Homosalate, Octocrylene, and mixtures thereof.

According to other preferred embodiments, however, compositions of the present disclosure are “free of,” “substantially free of,” or “devoid of” as defined above of one or more of additional organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of Avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), Octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), Ensulizole (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), Homosalate, and Octocrylene, preferably two or more, preferably three or more, preferably four or more, or preferably all five of these sunscreen agents.

According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present disclosure are “free of,” “substantially free of,” or “devoid of” as defined above of one or more of additional organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of OXYBENZONE (benzophenone-3), OCTINOXATE (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE, METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYL PHENOL, DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXY BENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE, DIETHYLHEXYL BUTAMIDO TRIAZONE, ISOAMYL P-METHOXYCINNAMATE, POLYSILICONE-15, 4-METHYLBENZYLIDENE CAMPHOR, DISODIUM PHENYL DIBENZIMIDAZOLE TETRASULFONATE, METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACET ATE, preferably two or more, preferably three or more, preferably four or more, etc., and preferably “free of,” “substantially free of,” or “devoid of” all of these sunscreen agents.

According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present disclosure are “free of,” “substantially free of,” or “devoid of” as defined above of OXYBENZONE (benzophenone-3) and/or OCTINOXATE (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate).

Preferably, if present, the at least one additional organic UV filter is preferably present in compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of at least about 1% by weight, preferably at least about 5% by weight, preferably at least about 10% by weight, preferably at least about 12.5% by weight, and preferably at least about 15% by weight, with the upper end of the range of additional UV filter present preferably being about 40% by weight (e.g., about 1-40%, about 10-40%, about 12.5-40%, etc.), preferably about 30% by weight (e.g., about 5-30%, about 10-30%, about 15-30%, etc.), preferably about 25% by weight (e.g., about 5-25%, about 10-25%, about 15-25%, etc.), and preferably about 20% by weight (e.g., about 1-20%, about 5-20%, about 10-20%, etc.), with all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.

According to preferred embodiments, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and the at least one additional organic UV filter, if present, are present in compositions of the present disclosure in a weight % ratio of preferably about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably about 3:1 to about 1:3, and preferably about 2:1 to about 1:2, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, such as for example 5:1 to 2:1, 1:2 to 5:1, 8:1 to 1.5:1, 1:1.5 to 1:8, etc, with all weights being based on the weight % of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and weight % of additional organic UV filter present in the composition. Preferably, a higher weight % of additional organic UV filter is present in the compositions than of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present disclosure comprise 10% or less by weight relative to the total weight of composition of additional UV filters (including mineral UV filters), preferably less than 7.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, and preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present disclosure comprise 10% or less by weight relative to the total weight of composition of additional organic UV filters, preferably less than 7.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, preferably less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, and preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

According to preferred embodiments, the UV absorbing system of compositions of the present disclosure can “consist of” or “consist essentially of” (1) bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and (2) optionally additional organic UV filters.

According to preferred embodiments, this disclosure contemplates omitting one or more of any of the specific UV filters discussed above from the UV absorbing system of compositions of the present disclosure. By way of example, octocrylene and/or octinoxate can be omitted from the compositions. Similar omission of one or more of any of the specific UV filters discussed is thus contemplated.

Lipophilic Acrylic Polymer

According to the present disclosure, emulsion compositions comprising at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer are provided, wherein the lipophilic acrylic polymer comprises monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):

[Image Omitted]

- in which:
- R₁, independently at each instance, is chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and
- at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1 group is from 1:30 to 1:1, and
- the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer.

Preferably, R₁is constituted of alkyl radicals, preferably of C16-C22 alkyl radicals, and preferably of stearyl (C18) radicals or of behenyl (C22) radicals.

Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the R1 groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferentially at least 80% by weight and more preferentially at least 90% by weight.

According to one preferred embodiment, all the R1 groups are behenyl radicals.

According to another preferred embodiment, all the R1 groups are stearyl radicals.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1 group is from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably from 1:10 to 1:4.

Advantageously, the polymer units present in the polymer are constituted of the units (A) and (B) previously described.

The polymer preferably has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g/mol, preferably from 5000 to 9000 g/mol. The number-average molecular weight may be measured via the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described below.

The sample is prepared by preparing a solution of the polymer at 10 mg/ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54° C. for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appeared to be totally dissolved in the solvent.

The sample prepared is analyzed using two polypore 300×7.5 mm columns manufactured by Agilent Technologies, a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase and detection by refractive index. The sample is filtered through a 0.45 μm nylon filter, before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for the calibration are the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies. Polystyrene standards ranging from 2 520 000 to 162 daltons can be used for the calibration.

The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The polystyrene calibration curve is used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the various molecular weights can be performed by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

Preferably, the polymer has a melting point ranging from 40° C. to 70° C., preferably from 45° C. to 67° C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to methods based on standards ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 and the DSC calibration is performed according to standard ASTM E 9672.

According to preferred embodiments, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R₁groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer preferably has a melting point of from 40° C. to 60° C., preferably from 45° C. to 55° C.

According to preferred embodiments, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer has a melting point of from 60° C. to 70° C., preferably from 63° C. to 67° C.

The polymer of the present disclosure can be prepared by polymerization of a monomer having the formula below:

CH2═CH—COO—R1,

R1 having the meaning previously described, and of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

The polymerization may be performed according to known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.

The polymerization is, for example, described in document US 2007/0264204, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference.

According to preferred embodiments, the at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer is present in compositions of the present disclosure in an amount (active material) of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

C12-C24 Fatty Acid Esters of a C2-C24 Polyol

According to the present disclosure, emulsion compositions comprising at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C₂-C₂₄polyol are provided. Preferably, the at least one C₁₂-C₂₄fatty acid ester of a C₂-C₂₄polyol is at least one C₁₆-C₁₈fatty acid ester of glycerol.

According to preferred embodiments, the C₁₂-C₂₄fatty acid for the at least one C₁₂-C₂₄fatty acid ester of a C₂-C₂₄polyol can be a saturated or unsaturated acid such as, for example, stearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, etc.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means any organic molecule including at least two free hydroxyl groups.

According to preferred embodiments, the polyol for the at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol can be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic structure, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl at least two OH functions, preferably at least three OH functions. Preferably, the polyol for the at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol preferably has 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the polyol is chosen, for example, from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyglycerin-3, glycerol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is selected from 1,3-propanediol, polyglycerin-3, glycerol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is glycerol.

By way of examples of C12-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol, mention may be made of glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and mixtures thereof. As commercially available products, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by Evonik Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate, such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 3120 by Hiils, and monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate), for example sold under the name Dimodan HP by Danisco, or those sold under the name Tegin 90 by Evonik Goldschmidt.

Preferably, the C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol is glyceryl stearate.

According to preferred embodiments, the at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester(s) of a C2-C24 polyol is present in compositions of the present disclosure in an amount (active material) of from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, with all weights being with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Carboxylic or Carboxylate Anionic Surfactants Chosen from Fatty-Chain Amino acids and Salts Thereof

According to the present disclosure, emulsion compositions comprising at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of amino acids modified with at least one C₈-C₃₀hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C₈-C₂₄hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof, are provided. The term “hydrocarbon-based chain” means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, organic group constituted mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms, in which one or more carbon atoms can be replaced with an oxygen atom or a nitrogen atom. As examples of C₈-C₃₀hydrocarbon-based chains, mention may be made of C₈-C₃₀acyl radicals.

Exemplary amino acids include, but are not limited to, alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine and sarcosine.

More specifically mention may be made of the following compounds: dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl β-alaninate, lauroyl β-alaninate, lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, myristoyl β-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl β-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl β-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl β-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.

According to preferred embodiments, the at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant is selected from compounds having the following structure:

[Image Omitted]

- in which:
- Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
- X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
- n is equal to 0 or to 1;
- Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom and a —CH3, —CH(CH3)2, —CH2CH(CH3)2, —CH(CH3)CH2CH3, —CH2C6H5, —CH2C2H40H, —CH2OH, —CH(OH)CH3, —(CH2)4NH2, —(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, —CH₂C(O)O⁻M⁺, —(CH₂)₂C(O)OH and —(CH₂)₂C(O)O⁻M⁺ group; and
- M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

According to preferred embodiments, in formula 2:

- Z represents a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group;
- X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- n is equal to 0;
- Y is a hydrogen atom, a —(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a —(CH2)2C(O)O-M+ group; and
- M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates). Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) is/are chosen from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroylglutamic acid, myristoylglutamic acid, palmitoylglutamic acid, stearoylglutamic acid, behenoylglutamic acid, olivoylglutamic acid, cocoylglutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, especially the salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the salts of alkaline-earth metals such as Mg, or the ammonium salts of said acids.

Exemplary salts of amino acids modified with at least one C₈-C₃₀hydrocarbon-based chain include, but are not limited to, glutamate salts, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.

Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or a salt thereof is/are chosen from lauroylglutamic acids, cocoylglutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof is sodium stearoyl glutamate. Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and, in particular, under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.

Mention may also be made of triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft CT12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by Ajinomoto.

As acyl glutamic acid salts, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by Ajinomoto.

Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, for instance the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 sold by Ajinomoto.

According to preferred embodiments of the present disclosure, compositions of the present disclosure comprise the monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate), such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS 11 PF.

According to preferred embodiments, the at least one amino acid modified with at least one C₈-C₃₀hydrocarbon-based chain, and/or salts thereof, is preferably present in compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, all weights being with respect to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

C₁₂-C₂₄Saturated Fatty Alcohols

According to preferred embodiments, compositions optionally further comprising at least one C₁₂-C₂₄saturated fatty alcohol are provided. Preferably, the at least one C₁₂-C₂₄saturated fatty alcohol is linear and/or comprises from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Suitable examples included, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and/or behenyl alcohol, with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl alcohol being most preferred.

Commercially available cetyl alcohol includes, but is not limited to, those sold under the names Ecorol® 16/98 F and Ecorol® 16/98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Tegoalkanol® 16 by Evonik Goldschmidt, Lanette® 16 by Cognis, Vegarol® 1698 by VVF, Alkonat® 1698 P by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 by Kao and Acilol® 16 by Aegis Chemical.

Commercially available stearyl alcohol includes, but is not limited to, those sold under the names Tegoalkanol® 18 by Evonik Goldschmidt, Ecorol® 18/98 F and Ecorol® 18/98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 18 by Cognis, Kalcol® 8098 by Kao, Acilol® 18 by Aegis Chemical, Nacol® 18-98 by Sasol and NAA® 45 by Nihon Yushi.

Commercially available cetearyl alcohol includes, but is not limited to, those sold under the names Ecorol® 68/50 F and Ecorol® 68/50 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® O OR and Lanette® O OR Flakes by Cognis, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN by Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50/50 by Industria Quimica Del Centro, Conol® 30 CK by New Japan Chemical, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 by Evonik Goldschmidt, Kalcol® 6850 by Kao, Vegarol® 1618 (50:50) by VVF and Ginol® 1618 50:50 OR by Godrej Industries.

Commercially available behenyl alcohol includes, but is not limited to, those sold under the names Lanette 22 by BASF.

Preferably, compositions of the present disclosure possess an alpha-gel structure, that is to say that it has a lamella phase, believed to be due to the presence of a surfactant and of a C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol.

If present, the at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol is preferably present in compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Waxes

According to preferred embodiments, compositions of the present disclosure optionally further comprise at least one wax. “Wax” means a deformable or undeformable lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., which may be up to 120° C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the disclosed compositions preferably have a melting point of greater than or equal to 60° C., preferably greater than or equal to 70° C.

The term “lipophilic compound” refers to a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH/g.

Melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.

A measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp passing from −20° C. to 100° C., at a heating rate of 10° C./minute, it is then cooled from 100° C. to −20° C. at a cooling rate of 10° C./minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp passing from −20° C. to 100° C. at a heating rate of 5° C./minute. During the second temperature ramp, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes can be hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes and/or fluoro waxes, and can be of plant, animal, mineral and/or synthetic origin.

Preferably, if present, the wax(es) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to preferred embodiments, the composition in accordance with the present disclosure comprises at least one wax of plant origin.

According to preferred embodiments, the composition in accordance with the present disclosure comprises at least one jojoba ester wax. The jojoba ester wax may be in an unsaturated form of jojoba esters, which may be the entirely hydrogenated jojoba ester having the formula below:

R¹—COO—CH₂—R¹ [chem 3]

- in which:
- R1 is a CH3-(CH2)y group, y is equal to 16, 18, 20 or 22.

The jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of a jojoba wax ester (jojoba oil) having the formula below:

[Image Omitted]

- in which x and y are equal to 6, 8, 10 or 12.

The jojoba wax esters are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and of monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (position n-9), starting from the methyl end group (—CH3) of the chain of the respective fatty acid or alcohol.

Such wax esters are composed of fatty alcohols and of fatty esters with an even number of carbon atoms, mainly 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material comprises esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of esters of 36 and 46 carbon atoms being present. The typical composition of the wax esters is indicated below.

TABLE 1

Wax esters

Chain
typical %

(X, Y)
length
(surface by GPC)

(6, 6)
36
1

(6, 8) (8, 6)
38
8

(6, 10) (8, 8)
40
39

(10, 6)

(10, 8) (8, 10)
42
38

(10, 10)
44
13

(12, 10) (10, 12)
46
1

The jojoba wax ester can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

By way of examples of a jojoba wax ester, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Floraesters® 70 by International Flora Technologies Ltd, and the product sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by Vantage.

Preferably, if present, the jojoba ester wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to preferred embodiments, the composition in accordance with the present disclosure comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon-based wax in addition to the jojoba ester mentioned above. Suitable examples include, but are not limited to, beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; use may in particular be made of polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof. Mention may in particular be made of beeswax, for example the product sold under the name White beeswax BR G889 by Koster Keunen, carnauba wax, for example sold under the name Cerauba T1 Bio by Baerlocher, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by Koster Keunen, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, compositions of the present disclosure comprise Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

If present, the additional hydrocarbon-based wax is preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to preferred embodiments, the composition in accordance with the present disclosure comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium steroyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters and sunflower seed wax, having the INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera (and) Polyglycerin-3, sold under the name Emulium® Dolcea MB by Gattefosse.